😱HEAT DAMAGE! 😱Plenty of my curly clients and people who are not my clients ask about how they can have the best of both worlds and wear their hair CURLY and STRAIGHT! Like, how much straightening is to much straightening? What’s the limit?
Hmmmm, tough question, but not really. The answer….as with many of my answers, is….IT DEPENDS! Hair care does not have a blanket approach. There are basics you can follow that apply across the board, but many times it comes down to individual assessments. So, lets get back to the question at hand, is it possible to flip back and forth between curly and straight without suffering heat damage? Well, if you hair is more resilient to heat, a little courser in texture and super dense….it is a possibility. But in all honesty, Ive done QUITE A BIT of hair and I dont run into many heads of hair like that. Most hair textures I deal with are finer or medium textured hair, with a softer feel to them. With that being said, it is easier for this type of hair to experience heat damage. It may not be on the first blow out/silk press…but over time, the risk of heat damage will present itself, ESPECIALLY if you wear your hair straight MORE than you wear it curly.
Sooooo….how do we mitigate this? Here are a few pointers:
1. Limit the amount of heat used on the hair. If you see your stylist once a week or bi weekly for a flat ironed style… let that be the only use of heat between visits
2. Be mindful of how hot the flat iron gets. The blow dryer is administering heat, so the hair is already experiencing quite a bit. Most hair textures dont need more than 410/420F heat to smooth the hair. Take smaller sections to ensure getting the heat all the way through. And KEEP THE HEAT MOVING! Don’t rest the heat to long on any part of the section. The smoother the blow dry finish, the less flat iron heat you will need.
3. If you are natural, as in no relaxer, then you need to be wearing your hair curly MORE than you wear it straight. Think 80/20 or 70/30
4. Be mindful of how much stress your putting on your hair before blowing it out and smoothing it. If your hair is tangled or matted and doing a lot of stretching and snapping when detangling, it is in a weakened state and is more susceptible to heat damage.
5. DO NOT! I REPEAT, DO NOT, flat iron dirty and/or oily hair! Imagine ironing a dirty/oily shirt…you’re baking the dirt into the shirt and frying the oil! Greta way to cause damage!
6. Keep the PH of your hair regulated! (See The healthy hair Care guide)
YES, you can get heat damage after only being flat ironed once. The heat may be to high…the pass may be to slow….your hair may be SUPER fine or porous and less heat resilient.
How do we build up heat protection? Many turn to a heat protectant spray of some kind….but let me ask you this…have you ever sprayed a heat protectant spray in your hair, began to flat iron and heard a sizzle? That's because you’re spraying WET product on dry hair and then boiling that wet product with high heat! The best heat protection comes from the balance and hydration your hair strands possess. The best way to make sure your hair has this is within the shampoo process. This is where we clean out all the build up and redeposit a healthy balance of protein and moisture, which regulates the ph and porosity, then we seal it all in. You can read more about this in Your Healthy Hair Care Guide
Bottom line….it is possible to flip back and forth between your curls popping AND silky smooth hair, but without mindfulness, the risk of heat damage will always be higher.
Thanks for listening! If you have any questions, please comment below
Mental Health Check-INI had this whole thing typed out and then my computer dumped it! I screamed, I stomped my feet, I swore; then, I took a deep breath and started typing again. I’m still upset, but its not the end of the world 🥴
Anywho! Lets get into it! Lets Talk Hair(On a Tuesday) is getting a makeover. From now on I will be rotating between the 3 points in my tag line. Healthy Mind, Healthy Body, Healthy Hair. They will still come out on Tuesdays on(or around) 10 am. I’m not sure if I’m going to keep the name, Lets Talk Hair, or change it to something else. I guess I can figure that out later.
Mental Health matters!
Mental Health awareness has been on the rise for some time now and I’m all the way here for it. Awareness and understanding of our individual Mental and emotional health is so important and is at the forefront of any other version of health and wellness. It propels the way we live and take care of ourselves. It impacts our self esteem and how we relate to others. I’m speaking of the general state of mind. If you have been clinically diagnosed with specific mental health, then you may have more insight in treatment and approaches.
Our general state of mind is influenced by so many things, upbringing, various trauma, religion, social media, relationships etc. etc.
It took me years and some, rock bottom, experiences to figure out that I have had a very unhealthy state of mind. It was affecting everything in my life. For about 8 years now I’ve been looking into my own self discovery and working towards understanding my own mental and emotional health. Many things I have learned, in that time, up until about 6 months ago have been somewhat in theory. I was continuing to bang my head up against the wall and wasn’t making sustainable changes. I was stuck. I needed HELP.
Today i want to let you know what has helped me in ways i could never have imagined:
1. Curiosity- simply being curious has opened my mind to asking myself certain questions about myself, lol It was a great starting point.
2.Therapy- finding a good therapist has helped me to find answers to questions I didnt know I had. It has been a tool in helping me find some of my missing puzzle pieces.
3. Daring Greatly by Brene Brown. This book has completely opened my eyes to how shame has been ruining my life and what vulnerability truly is. Brene Brown does an amazing job breaking down the meaning of shame and how it effects us.
4. The body keeps the Score by Bessel A. Van der Kolk M.D.- this book has explained how trauma can effect the body long after the brain “forgets” it. It discusses possible approaches for treatment.
5. The body is not and Apology by Sonya Renee Taylor- This book has taught me to view my body image so differently and how other peoples bodies are not my business.
I am by NO means telling you that you MUST go to therapy or that you MUST read these books. What I am saying, is that these may be extremely helpful resources if you find yourself embarking on your own self discovery journey. If you have already started your journey and have resources that your would like to share, PLEASE SHARE!
Remember, mental and emotional health ARE at the forefront of ANY form of health. In order to shift your lifestyle your must shift your mindset. I understand that sounds “simple” I know that it is not and quite frankly, once it starts….it doesnt end. Which is good! That means we are always evolving!
With that being said, your mental health matters! I love you and i am looking forward to hearing about your growth! ❤️
Hold the Phone 📞!!!!
Hold up, hold up, hold, up!!!!!! I recently heard about a stylist that was using an entire fruit salad in her clients hair. She was cutting up watermelon and using the juice as a scalp treatment. She was mashing avocados as a hair treatment and using raw aloe Vera as well. This was all being done by a professional in a salon. All I can say here is RED FLAG 🚩
Y’all know my motto is JUST EAT YOUR FOOD! Its disconcerting enough to see non-pro YouTubers, encouraging all of the food treatments for hair, but to see professionals do it to…..it makes my job that much harder.
Hair DOES NOT eat. It is actually dead material
(Keratinized red blood cells) that have grown out of your scalp. Once the cell turns into a hair and begins to protrude of the of the scalp, it is no longer living. The way the hair “eats” is through the blood supply under the surface of the scalp. There are several small arteries that the hair strand “feeds” from. This blood supply is what carries all of the nutrients it needs to continue growing. Fruits, veggies and other nutrient dense foods are super important for your body. They benefit your body, including your hair, best when YOU eat them. Raw food material does not have a small enough molecular structure to fit into the hair strand. Which means that, when food is used in the hair, its more than likely just sitting on top and making a mess. Professional hair care products use technology and extraction to take those raw materials and process them into something your hair can use, topically.
The other issue with using watermelon juice and oranges and aloe and avocado as scalp treatments, is that they are likely adding to the scalp ailment. If someone is experiencing a yeast build up or bacterial infection in the follicles, it is important to begin the process of drying it up. Yeast and bacteria need moisture to thrive. And yeast feeds off SUGAR. So, of all things to put in the hair, watermelon juice and orange juice AINT it 😬, thats like adding more flames to the fire 🔥.
With that being said, ill leave you with a few of my little quips.
1. I like my food raw and my hair products processed
2. JUST EAT YOUR FOOD!
3. Chemicals doesnt automatically mean unhealthy and all natural doesn’t automatically mean healthy or beneficial.
I offer a few special scalp treatments in the salon that include a detox and exfoliation. The detox is meant to pull impurities from deeper inside the follicles and to dry up any unwanted yeast and/or bacteria. The exfoliation is mean to leave the scalp feeling fresh and breathable,
If you are interested in any of these services, please visit my website for more information
Do you find yourself applying product to your hair everyday because it “sucks it up”? Do you feel as if your hair is still dry, even though you’re using “moisturizing” styling product?
The reason for this, may be that your hair’s ph isn’t regulated. Ph is an important part to the body’s overall function. Different parts of the body have different ph balances that help it to maintain a healthy state. Most areas of your body regulate on their own(provided your health hasn’t been thrown to far off balance)
Your hair, however, needs a little help. Hair is dead…dead, dead, dead, lol. This is why it is important to use QUALITY products to maintain it.
Your hair and scalps healthy ph level is between a 4.5 and a 5.5 which is slightly acidic. It’s on the acidic side to help ward away bacteria and infection(that’s for another Let’s talk Hair discussion)
Shampoo and conditioner are important to maintaining the healthy ph levels of your hair. Here’s how:
Shampoo ph is typically around a 6. This is intentional, because of what it’s job is. Shampoo is meant to slightly raise the hair and scalps ph in order to open the cuticle(think opening fish gills) of the hair and lift the build up off the scalp.
Conditioner ph is typically at 3.5/4. This is also intentional because conditioner is meant to deposit protein and moisture and begin the regulation process of the hair. Now that all the build up has been cleansed, what has been replenished has to be sealed in. The cuticle of the strand has to be closed.
If this is not happening during the shampoo/conditioning process, you maybe walking around with hair cuticles that are never being closed.
Imagine walking around with a cup that has holes in it and trying to fill it up every day, attempting to maintain the moisture. It holds on to the water for a second but then it loses it.
Until the ph becomes regulated, this is what is happening with your hair. In order to do that, you will need to use quality shampoos and conditioners. This can be hard to determine with the amount of products that are on the market today.
Here are some things to consider when choosing a shampoo and conditioner:
Remember, one of the most important parts of hair care is the shampoo/conditioning process. If this is off, then the rest of the hair experience will also be off. It is the main thing that regulates the hair and scalp.
Do you have any questions? PLEASE comment below
We’ve all heard of relationship red flags…..but have you heard of HAIR PRODUCT red flags? This sounds self explanatory, right? Well, it should be, but just like those relationship ones, they can be clear as day AND easy to miss. I call it “hiding in plain sight”.
So you’re ready to change your lifestyle
This week will be a little different from normal. We wont be talking specifically about hair.
So you’re ready to change your lifestyle?
I talk quite a bit about how hair and health are connected and i get countless inquiries on where to start when it comes to this. Whether its virtual or in person, i have many people that express that they are ready to change their lifestyle, not only so they can start to feel better, but because they want to see changes in their hair. Most believe that the place to start is FOOD! While that seems like the obvious answer, it is not always the case.
After being my own case study for the last 5 years or so, and working with clients. I have found that simply changing what I eat does not equate to a healthier lifestyle. In many ways, the negative coping skill are still there, but are manifested in other forms. I was still an emotional eater and didn’t know why. I lived in the mindset of all or nothing, I was obsessive, so i restricted my food, counted calories/macros/micros and sugar down to the gram, scrutinized my weight, i worked out like a maniac and after it all, and I isolated myself so that I wouldn’t be “tempted” to eat badly. I still wasn’t happy or healthy (mentally/emotionally) While my options, by way of food, may have been “healthier”, my behaviors and patterns were still toxic. On the outside, I looked really good and even felt good, physically. Unfortunately when I look back with more understanding eyes, none of it was for me. It was all to keep up appearances and once I started, I was afraid that if I fell off I’d be considered a failure and a fraud. I also felt like, at that point, its what people expected from me. Doing things for others and not myself has been a recurring pattern for me. And just because I was eating plant based, didn’t change that. Now, here I am, just about 6 years later, in therapy and feeling better than ever. And I havent had to count ONE single calorie to get here! Uncovering and dealing with certain issues and buried emotional trauma has been tough, but worth it.
Not addressing the psychological part of the lifestyle change can lead to feelings of shame and guilt. It also makes it easier to gravitate towards quick fixes and fad diets. In my coaching practices I encourage my clients to build a small network around them selves that help them to tailor a more customized approach to individual change.
Some of the professionals to consider in your network would be:
-primary medical doctor
When it comes to making lasting lifestyle changes or addressing certain habits/patterns/behaviors. It is extremely important to start with the MIND and to find out what your individual body needs to thrive. Understanding the psychology behind these things is what will help bring awareness to what you’re doing and hopefully lead to conscious decisions to make more lasting changes where applicable to your individual life.
Don’t let the world shame you into living off green smoothies and kale chips to solve all your health problems. Food, while its a good start, is not the only component to health and wellness.
As a stress, mindset and gut health coach. I can help point you in the right direction and offer weekly encouragement and accountability. Book your consultation today.
Oh My! Please DONT TRY! Part 2
Alright now! Last week we talked about Tessica Brown, AKA Gorilla Glue Girl and her series of unfortunate hair events. Fortunately, she was able to pull through and is now wearing her hair proudly.
She’s actually come out on top in multiple ways. She was able to fulfill her go fund me request, she was able to catch the attention of a renounced black plastic surgeon to take the time to remove the glue from her hair, she created some merch and recently she’s come out with a hair growth oil.
This is not to condemn her ingenuity and ambition. She took lemons and made sweet lemonade! And thats how America, works1
NOW! Lets talk a little about the marketing, science and the concept of hair growth oil.
Have you ever wondered why a certain angle or filter is chosen when it comes to selling products? Or have you ever analyzed word choices or placement? I’m sure you have.
Marketing is and will always be psychological. If it targets insecurity and pain points and makes indirect promises, we got a winner! “Hair growth” is already going to get your attention, it is the indirect promise that most are looking for win certain types of hair products. “OIL” is a buzzword for African American women. Oil has been a beloved and popular product for generations and has been given the power of healing. In Tessica’s video, there are a few marketing factors at play. Angle, placement, camouflage and of course, a filter. Everything plays a little game with the consumers mind.
Not to mention the fact that this product was developed so quickly.
The concept of hair growth oil and the science:
The idea that oil grows hair and has been around for generations upon generations. However, I’m not quite sure where the correlation actually came from. What proves that oil can make the hair grow? The answer is really, nothing. Nothing proves or disproves it on a surface level. But when you dig just a little deeper, that’s where understanding lies.
Many people believe strongly in this, I am here to offer a little food for thought when it comes to hair growth. And yes, i have become the proverbial broken record over the years, but it must be continually said.
Hair growth is a METABOLIC FUNCTION, which means it is intricately tied to how your internal body is working. All of the mechanics if your internal health directly effect the way your hair grows. Ok, when I say metabolic function, think about digestion, blood pressure, cholesterol and so on and so forth…. Those things are also metabolic functions and can be altered in various positive and negative ways, depending on predisposition and how you take care of your internal body.
Because hair growth is a metabolic function, that means that it will grow REGARDLESS of any “protective style” or oil application. On average, hair grows a 1/4 to a 1/2 an inch a month on its own. Now, there are ways that hair growth can be influenced negatively on an external level. Oil is often times used improperly on the scalp and creates build up in the follicles. This can cause SLOW hair growth or for a follicle to remain dormant for a while because a hair cannot protrude through. This is why it is IMPORTANT to shampoo your hair often and keep the scalp cleansed. If you or anyone else you know have experienced a bald spot, began to apply oil and saw growth. That is what i call coincidental. That hair would have grown with out the oil and thats because the follicles are still active and metabolically the body was able to produce hair.
Follicles can also experience scarring, if thats the case, then there’s nothing, internal or external, that can regrow the hair.
Don’t let the advertisements and “all natural” labels fool you. I think its great that Tessica has turned her lemon into lemonade, but its also good to understand what you’re actually working with.
Are you experiencing hair loss that you need help understanding? Book your hair loss consultation today!
Oh My, PLEASE DONT TRY!
We all remember our dear friend Tessica Brown! Earlier this year she had a little oops moment that landed her front and center on the social media stage and branded her with the unforgettable nickname “Gorilla Glue Girl”.
If you don’t know the story, here is the short version:
Back in January, Tessica got her hair done. She left the salon, rocking a really cute, sleeked back braided ponytail. She was lit! Fast forward a few weeks and she wanted to freshen her style up, but realized that she didn’t have her normal hairspray(Gots Ta Be Glued) in the house. That’s where things took a turn for the worst. Without thinking it through, she grabbed Gorilla Glue adhesive spray and proceeded to use it as hairspray. YIKES! About a month goes by and she surfaces on tiktok asking for help, as she realized that the spray she used in her hair had actually glued it down. As she was looking for help, she created a GoFundMe and was able to raise $20,000, eventually a Plastic surgeon got wind of her story and volunteered to help remove the glue from her hair surgically. The process was painstaking and her scalp suffered quite a bit of trauma, but she made it! Then, Tessica did what any true American would do and capitalized off of her 15 min. She made merch and as of late has come out with a Hair growth oil (which we’ll talk about in next weeks email).
Her story quickly became viral and in true social media form, the critics critiqued. I heard and read everything from “she’s stupid” to “this is just a publicity stunt”.
Now granted, I had my own opinion about the act itself and wondered how she could confuse Hairspray with Glue, however, I took a less harsh approach than some.
Everyone and I mean EVERYONE, has had a gorilla glue moment. What I mean by that is, consider a decision (or 2) you’ve made, that hasn’t been all the way thought through and it doesn’t become apparent until much later. A gorilla glue moment doesn’t even have to be hair related.
The difference between our moment and Tessica’s is simply the camera.
The other thing I thought about, was about how it seems that we are very determined to keep our styles for extended periods of time. Why? Does that say something about our society/culture and the way we feel about how we look? Ive been in the industry for a long time and have seen people ruin their hair with actual hair products, let alone something as serious as Gorilla glue. From Pump it up, to black hair glue build up stuck to the scalp and more. We place the “look” over the safety/health of the hair and scalp.
Lets not call Tessica stupid or even say she did it for publicity.. Instead, lets use her story and others alike, as a mirror and practice compassion.
Or at the very least, lets start separating the person from the behavior. She’s not stupid…but what she did(the behavior) may not have been smart.
What did you learn from Tessica’s story? What was your Gorilla Glue moment?
If you’re having trouble deciding what to do next with your hair or learn the basics of taking care of it. Please book your consultation today! OR buy your healthy Hair Care Guide, written by yours truly ♥️
By now you know that the average human sheds a total of 50-100 hairs a day.
But did you know that humans have a molting cycle? In addition to our regular daily shed. We also experience a seasonal purge of hair, and skin. Just like a dog, a cat, or even a snake. During this process you may notice a little more shedding than normal.
Environmental change can cause this purge, as well as weather and individual health. This process is completely natural and is the bodies way of shedding the old and making way for the new.
This type of shedding is normally diffused throughout the entire head and does not last an excessive amount of time. Once your body is done molting, you may see a growth spurt in your hair.
Some times you will shed more than normal and that doesn’t necessarily mean something is wrong. There are ways to determine if/when this is happening, but it may take a couple years to tune in to it.
Keep in mind that wearing “resting” styles can get in the way of learning what your body is doing. They mask your shedding and can also cause premature shedding. If you are trying to learn your body’s cycles and patterns, when it comes to your hair, it may take wearing it out and even keeping a daily hair log. You can track shedding patterns, growth spurts, stagnant times and what’s going on with your health and the environment during those times. It may be a tedious process, but can be done.
If you would like to take on this challenge, let’s set up a consultation to get you started.
If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.
How many times have we heard this saying over the years? We hear it all the time when it comes to meal prep, business, fitness and anything else that is approached in a goal oriented way. I would like to present the same idea when it comes to your hair. Do you have any specific hair goals? Some people want to see how long their hair can get. Some people want color, some maintain relaxers and some want to maintain a particular style, but not necessarily length.
How do you achieve these goals? With a plan, of course!
Here are a few pointers for creating a plan that works for you:
1. Consult with a pro to find out what your hair and scalp need
2. Map out a few realistic goals for your hair
3. Consider your commitment level
4. Consider how your proposed plan factors into your lifestyle.
5. Decide if this will be an in salon process or home based process
6. Once you commit to something that seems right for you, remember to follow through. Optimal results come when you go ALL in!
Patience is key when it comes to achieving these goals.
Booking a virtual consultation and get you started in the right direction.
Start with your Healthy Hair Care guide!